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A common misconception exists about Mexican and Caribbean vanilla. People rave about the fabulous deal they got on a giant bottle of vanilla extract in Mexico, Haiti, Guadeloupe, etc. Further, it has such a unique flavour and it's stronger than any vanilla they've ever used. Well, sorry, it isn't pure vanilla extract. In fact, chances are the product in the big bottle is synthetic.

Because vanilla originally came from Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean, and because, at one time Mexico produced the world's finest vanilla, it follows that it would still be true. In fact, nearly all of the so-called vanilla extract coming from these countries is synthetic!

Mexico had the monopoly on vanilla production until the latter part of the 19th century and the vanilla-growing region on the Gulf of Mexico was very prosperous. In the mid-1800s, the French invested heavily in vanilla plantations in Reunion, the Comoro Islands, and later, Madagascar, and by the early 20th century these regions gained control of the world vanilla market. In the 1880s the first synthetic vanillas came from Germany, providing a cheaper alternative to natural vanilla.

In the early 20th century, the Mexican Revolution raged throughout the country, and for a while, was especially fierce on the Gulf Coast of Mexico. Mexico's share of the world's vanilla supply took a nosedive, but its reputation remained intact for several decades. During this time, Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean began selling cheap synthetic vanillas hoping to cash in on the association of Mexico and vanilla. It worked. By adding coumarin to synthetic vanillin, the flavour was a little more like pure vanilla. Coumarin, from the Tonka tree, can be toxic, especially to the liver. We've outlawed its use in the United States since the 1950s.

Although there are label laws in Mexico they aren't enforced; in some of the other countries there are no restrictions. So, don't count on the label for an accurate account of the ingredients. Needless to say, synthetic vanillas are a big industry as most tourists have no idea they are being duped and it's an easy product to sell.

How do you know if it's pure vanilla? There are a few tip-offs:

* Is it amber coloured, dark and murky, or clear? Clear is pure, synthetic vanillin. It's often called "crystal vanilla." Dark and murky is synthetic vanillin, most likely ethyl vanillin derived from coal tar. It may also be dark because it contains red dye that we've banned in the U.S. or it may contain caramel colouring. If it's truly amber-coloured it may be natural vanilla.

* What is the alcohol content? Usually the synthetics range from no alcohol to about 2% alcohol (which acts as a stabilizer). There are some vanilla-vanillin blends and some cheap-quality vanillas that have 25% alcohol, but they aren't worth buying either.

* How much did you pay for it? This is the biggest tip-off. If it's in a big bottle and you paid $20.00 or less, it's absolutely not vanilla extract. Pure vanilla extract usually costs more in Mexico because only one company makes quality extract, and only in small quantities.

The only brand of pure vanilla extract in Mexico that I recommend is made by Orlando Gaya Hijos in Gutierrez Zamora, Vera Cruz and it usually can be only found in the Vera Cruz region. If you want safe, good quality pure Mexican vanilla extract, buy it in this country. And if you want synthetics, buy them here too. It's the same price as you'd pay in Mexico but American synthetics aren't adulterated with dangerous additives.